Target Marker Photoshop For Mac Threshold Level

TARGET MARKER PHOTOSHOP THRESHOLD LEVEL SOFTWARE SUCH PIXINSIGHT

I was using 45-80 Pixels radius.Open the Threshold dialog box. The Radius will depend on the brush strokes that you made. Select Filter > Other > Maximum. Play around with different opacity and brush sizes. Select the Brush tool (around 40-60 opacity) and create the shape of the smoke. Open your chosen picture in Photoshop and create a New Layer.

Beside the source data, add a Benchmark line column, and fill with your benchmark values. This is the only step that is central to editing any kind of astrophotography.1. Drag the slider below the histogram until the threshold level you want appears at the top of the dialog box, and click OK.Image stacking is the process to combine all your light and calibration frames into a single image.

DonвЂ™t forget to take them at the same temperature as your light frames. These will come in handy later on. While you are packing your stuff, take some dark frames.

Target Marker Photoshop Threshold Level Software Such Pixinsight

SoftwareDedicated software such PixinsightВ is great, but such software usually has a steep price and learning curve.The software I will suggest to you in this guide is mostly freeware and easy to use. For each case, I will focus on the key steps of the editing workflow. Editing Strategies In AstrophotographySince there is not a single workflow that will fit all cases, I will break down the subject in four case studies. Luckily, software is available to help you with the process.

Starry Landscape Stacker (free trial available, Mac OS X). Stars move between the different images, but the landscape does not. Useful SoftwareThe main difficulty in editing is to deal with a dynamic sky and a fixed foreground. Case Study I: Starry LandscapesStarry landscapes are probably the first kind of astrophotography you will attempt.

It supports RAW files.Finally, you can use Adobe Photoshop/Lightroom to edit your stacked image. Sequator (free, Windows): as Starry Landscape Stacker, this software makes image stacking easy. You need to convert them in TIFF with Adobe Camera RAW or similar software The drawback is that RAW files are not supported.

This will cause all sorts of problems with white balance and luminosity gradients.I like to import my raw files into Lightroom to fix these issues first.To fix the white balance I start with a general balance for the foreground using the eyedrop tool. Step 1: White Balance, Vignette and GradientsOne of the main problems when shooting starry landscapes is light pollution, particularly low on the horizon. Sony RX100 Mk ii on a tripod and set to ISO 6400, 15вЂі, 28mm EFL (equivalent focal length), f/1.8. The sky was moderately polluted, scoring a 5 in the Bortle scale. Editing WorkflowLetвЂ™s work with this starry landscape I took in Cap-Blanc-Nez (Calais, France). It will probably fail to align your sky.

Those dots will mostly be over the stars, but some will be at the horizon or in the foreground.The dots are the alignment points the program will use to align all the images. Tiffs, you will see some red dots are placed in the sky. To do that I use Starry Landscape Stacker.After loading all the. Step 2: Image StackingThe next step is stacking. Reducing luminosity gradient above the horizon with a radial filter.Finally, I synchronise all my images in Lightroom and export them as TIFF. White balance for the sky.When I am happy, I set the saturation and vibrance slides back to zero.To fix vignetting, I boost the contrast to +100and use the vignette slider in the manual lens correction panel.Finally, I use local adjustment tools to reduce most of the luminosity gradients so the image is as flat as possible.

You can refine the mask by painting in more sky or painting out selected background. This info will create a sky mask. All the areas of the image that are considered вЂskyвЂ™ will appear in blue.

ItвЂ™s important not to push sharpening, clarity and contrast too far. Step 3: Finishing TouchesI then import the stacked image into Lightroom and/or Photoshop for final tuning. Saving the stacked sky can be useful if you have different series of images for the sky and the foreground. This will separate the foreground from the sky, align all the stars to a reference frame and stack the resulting images together.You can now save the stacked image and the stacked sky as TIFF.

These will help remove thermal noise from the single long exposures.For star trails you can choose blending mode Lighten or Gap Filling. Step 2: Image StackingI import all my TIFF images into StarStax, together with TIFF dark frames, if I have them. Editing Workflow Step 1: White Balance, Vignette and GradientsI start my editing by correcting white balance and removing vignette and gradients again. Useful SoftwareWhile you can do everything in Photoshop &Co., StarStax (free, Win/Linux/Mac OS X) will make the whole process a breeze. The main difference is that you will not try to freeze the stars in the sky, but rather enhance their movement.In this article I discussed in detail how to photograph star trails. Case Study II: Star TrailsStar trail photography is not much different than nocturnal landscapes.

The main subject of your photo is a celestial body.PIPP (free, Windows) is a great image pre processing software used in planetary astrophotography.Registax (free, Windows) and Autostakkert! (free, Windows) are great to stack images of the Moon, the Sun and other planets. Useful SoftwareWith lunar close ups we enter in the realm of вЂњrealвЂќ astrophotography. This kind of editing is basically the one you would do in classic landscape photography.Who does not love the Moon? As part of a landscape, it can add interest and set the mood of the image, but the real treats are lunar closeups.I detailed Moon (and Solar) photography in this article. Step 3: Finishing TouchesI then once again import the stacked image into Lightroom and/or Photoshop. Otherwise, you can try changing the parameters for the gap filling (tool icon) or use a different blending mode.

Be sure to select the proper position for the Moon Shadow, so to match the Moon Phase to help the software to detect the Moon.Finally, check the Enable Cropping option and specify the size for the cropped image.Then move to Output Option tab and set the output format for the processed images. Here check enable Object Detection and Centre Object in Each Frame. I then save the images as AVI video or TIFF.First load your image (RAW, TIFF, AVIвЂ¦) into PIPP, then move to the Processing Option tab. Editing Workflow Step 1: PreprocessingI use PIPP to centre the Moon in each frame and to crop the images to the desired size, usually 2000Г—2000 pixels.

Below you can see the effect of the wavelets on the top half of the Moon, while the bottom half has not yet been sharpened. This page of the Registax manual tells you more about how you use wavelets.The Do all button allows you to test your option on your image. Because of the quality criteria was to use the best 80% of the images, from my set of 99 frames only 79 will be used.When the stack is complete, move to use wavelets to sharp the image.Be careful not to oversharpen the image or you will have bad artefacts. Next go to the Stack tab and click on Stack to combine the aligned frames into a single image. This will cause the program to set some points (visible in red on the Moon) in the image that will be used to align the different frames.Set the program to use about 200 align points (the strongest one) and stack the best 80% of your images.Click Align to align the frames. Step 2: Image StackingRegistax is older than Autostakkert!, but I use it because after stacking I can sharpen the image using wavelets.Stacking images with Registax is very simple.Load your video or TIFF images by clicking on Select in the Menu bar and click on Set Alignpoints in the the Align tab.

I usually work to render the sky pure black right at the edge of the Moon, boost contrasts and details, fix highlights, etc. If your colours go wild, remove as many adjustment layers as you need to get natural results.When youвЂ™re happy, change the blending mode of the group to colour.Finally, move to Lightroom to make the final adjustments. I also go to Image->autocolor to let Photoshop improve the colours.Put this layer in a new group and use the saturation adjustment layer and increase its saturation to 15.Start duplicating the saturation layer over and over to slowly build up colours in the lunar surface.Keep an eye on the image. To do so, I import the stacked image into Photoshop.First thing I do is use the camera raw filter (Shift+cmd+A on Mac) to reduce any chromatic aberration I may have on the Moon edge.Next, I duplicate the level and apply a noise reduction filter, to smooth the Moon surface a little. Step 3: Finishing TouchesI like my Moon shots to show colours.

Target Marker Photoshop For Mac Threshold Level